12.31.2012

13 - 14 December


13 December
Shakawe
0 Miles

Erik:
    Today we went to a farm taht is introducing conservation farming to Botswana. It was developed in Namibia and Zambia, and they had been trying to introduce it to Botswana for awhile with no success. But this year they have about 16 female volunteers that are going to apply it to their farms this year. It is the first year that this technique is spreading. Based on smaller more efficient land usage, it lowers animal human conflict and is better for the soil. But it is hard to convince people that this is A: better and B: worth the extra work. So really what we did was pull weeds with matt and talk to the owner (whilemine) over a sweet breakfast. Whilemine has started several NGO's there and is quite an impressive lady. A very nice day, hot and sweaty, but nice. On a little side note steph got a sunburn on her back in just a little slit. It looks hilarious.

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14 December
Shakawe
0 Miles

Erik:
Went to a croc farm. Saw huge crocs (20 ft long). Ate quiche for dinner. We want to take Bridgett with us as a travel chef.
The hippos got super close to the house and were barking (its like a deep wah wah wah). It was pretty neat.  

12.30.2012

11 - 12 December


11 December
Sepopa – Shakawe
37 Miles

Erik:
Not a bad ride. At one point it started just pouring rain. Buckets and buckets for about 20 minutes, and we were drenched. We got to their place at around 10 and Bridget walked met us at Choppies (grocery store). We then walked the maze route to their house. Once we got there we were welcomed with nice warm baths. Very nice. Afterwards we (matt, bridgett and kelly) walked to Dijo Deli for some awesome milk shakes.
We next went on the delta for a boat ride. Very relaxing, but short. Saw some really cool birds that we hadnt seen before.
Polished the night off with some braii and just sat outside and relaxed.
Erik, kelly, Matthews, Bridget and Matt!
The Okavango delta

View from the Kogle's back yard


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12 December
Shakawe
0 Miles

Erik:
Just chilled. It was matts b-day so Bridgett cooked up some cake for everyone. In the morning we joined matt at the clinic to see what goes on there. It was very interesting. He works with the baby weighing project. Every month moms bring their babies in to get wieghed and make sure they are healthy. At the same time they get a ration of baby food and oil for cooking. An interesting program, seems semi effective from what matt was telling us. Just like most things, a little more follow up would help out a lot.  



12.29.2012

6 - 10 December


6 December
Sepopa
0 Miles


Today everyone arrived to get ready for our weekend Island Camping Trip. Most of the people who came we hadn't met before and were all very nice. The house was packed and the ladies made an awesome dinner for everyone. Everyone is stoked about leaving in the morning!

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7 - 10 December
Swamp Stop
0 Miles

Steph:

Aimee's tiny little house was covered in sleeping, hung-over bodies this morning. It was actually pretty impressive how everyone was ready to go by 7am. Theo and Kyle picked us up with their big trucks and we headed over the Swamp Stop. We had to wait while the boats were being loaded and a lot of people thought that was a good enough reason to start quenching their thirst with the ridiculous amounts of alcohol that were available.

Finally, we all packed into two boats (there were about 26 people in total) and headed into the delta. It was beautiful. The channel was lined with papyrus reeds, the water was clean, the weather was nice. The two boats gave themselves names, Boat A and A Boat, and the competition about who was cooler and better lasted all weekend. Boat A clearly won. Kyle was our captain and less than two hours into the ride, he spotted a crocodile, stopped, drove up to it and CAUGHT it! Just like Steve Irwin. It was pretty awesome. We stopped at a smaller island and made some lunch. It was breathtaking. The plant life and bird sounds made it look and feel like Jurassic Park. We saw a bunch more corocodiles, including a few pretty big ones. Kyle wow'ed us with great fun facts about the area, the Kogle's (Bridget and Matt) taught us about all the birds we saw and the rest of us just sat back and enjoyed the ride.

Boat "B" :)


The island we stayed on was called Pepere Island. It has an area set up for camping, a kitchen, bathrooms and anything else we might need but is still very much the "bush". We camped right by the water and you could hear the hippos grunting all night long. We didn't really spent that much time on the actual island. On saturday morning, we loaded up the boats with more alcohol and took off toward an unknown destination. It was really so nice being out on the water. The weather was actually really hot in the morning, but very pretty. Later in the afternoon the clouds rolled in and we got caught in the rain for about an hour. Our boat took this as an opportunity to show off our vocal skills and sang one calssic rock song after the other. The other boat got into it as well, but we were better :) It can be said that our beverages had taken effect by this point. It was a very good time, to say the least. And the delta was breathtaking. Especially once the clouds rolled in. I really love clouds. The rain clouds make all other colors pop. See photos.

The weekend was a total sucess, to say the least. We met more incredible people, made more awesome friends, saw a bunch of wildlife and enjoyed the biggest inland delta in the world in a way very few people do. We want to thank our new peace corps peeps for including us (again). Thank you thank you thank you!!!

12.28.2012

3 - 5 December - Sepopa!


3 December
Gumare – Sepopa
50 Miles


Erik:

We woke up to some hard rain. It was doubtful weather or not it would pass, but it did and we rode out at about 9 am. We wish Jeff all the best. Seriously good guy. Even if he is a steelers fan. It was quite windy and we were a bit rusty from not moving for a while, so the ride was slow but ok. About an hour out of sepopa a french family stopped and gave us cold water. It was very nice. They were traveling around with their daughter for about 3 months.
Got to Aimees at about 3 pm. We walked down to the delta to check it out. Very, very pretty. Reminds me of the everglades in florida... except here there are hippos and elephants. We followed up with a very tastey dinner prepared by chef Aimee.

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4 December
Sepopa
0 Miles


Erik:

Lazy day. The general store was completely useless. We just vegged out and watched some movies and slept.


Steph:

Aimee had to work most of the day. That girl is amazing. She's also from Arizona and is super fun. Another fine example of a Peace Corps Volunteer. Sepopa is a pretty small village and like Erik said, the grocery store isn't exactly well stocked. There's sugar and maize and sometimes onions. That's pretty much it. No vegetables, fruits, anything that you can make into a healthy meal. The next closest store with these things is an hour away. So the big thing that Aimee is working on right now is to organize a Farmer's Market. There are a lot of small farms that people use primarily to feed their own families. But this would be the perfect opportunity for them to make some extra income and for the people of the town to have fresh produce on a regular basis. It's such a great idea.

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5 December
Sepopa
0 Miles


Steph:

Today was also very chill.
We met Theo, the manager of Swamp Stop, the place that is taking us to the island on friday. He picked us up to go to Shakawe and Choppies (grocery store). What a hilarious guy. He was born in Botswana, went to school in South Africa and has travelled extensively all over Africa and some of Europe. He's 22 years old and runs the place on his own but is also a total kid. Very charming and fun.

Aimee, Erik and I hung out at Swamp Stop all afternoon. It's a beautiful place. We discovered a wonderful tree with a wonderful fruit. We asked everyone on the ground if they knew what kind of tree it was and nobody knew. Not even Google knew. But it was delicious fruit. They were the size of cherries and incredibly sweet and tangy. We looked pretty cool walking around staring at the ground looking for the not rotten ones. For at least an hour. Aimee is going to plant the seeds when she gets back to the Sonoran Desert and have awesome tropical fruit forever.

Good times.
Then we went back to her house and made AMAZING PIZZA!! So good. We concluded the night watching How I met Your Mother. 
Suit up Ted!

12.09.2012

1 December - Game Drive

1 December
0 Miles
Gumare


Steph: 

We woke up this morning thinking it would be our last day in Gumare (and were kind of broken up about it). BUT! Dave, a PCV also set up in Gumare, called in a favor and asked his friend to take us on a game drive! Thys (Tase) picked us up and drove us to the game farm he manages. We got a tour of their lodge and base camp and then he drove us around the 9000hectare property to look for animals. It was awesome. We saw impala, kudu, oryx, steinbock, a tortoise, a black MAMBA (very dangerous) and some beautiful country.

Thys told us some amazing stories about the things he deals with on a daily basis. Basically, rich people come to the farm to hunt for trophies. They'll stay at the lodge and Thys takes them out on actual game drives, looking for animals to shoot. They're very responsible about it and need permits to kill however many of each animals. This particular piece of land is fenced to keep animals in, but also to keep the free roaming cattle, donkeys and horses out. It works pretty well for the most part, except for one thing.
Elephants.
This area is full of them and they do whatever they want to. They like this property because of the guaranteed water. During the dry season Thys and his men have to transport water from the closest bore hole for the game and themselves. The elephants are smart though, they know where they keep the big water tanks and regularly destroy and empty them out. The workers will fix them and the elephants come back. The fences aren't a problem because they just stomp right through them. It's amazing how smart they are. Ready?
Fences are basically just wire with wooden poles every few feet. The big supporting poles are about 10meters apart from each other and surround the whole compound. The smaller poles are easy to fix, but the elephants know that if they push over the big poles, the whole thing will just come down. So, naturally, they go for those everytime they come in or out of the property. Thys tried to outsmart them by planting the big poles in blocks of concrete and then digging them into the ground. It worked for a little while, until the elephants (mostly the lone bulls) realized that all they had to do was grab the whole pole with their trunks and just pulling the whole thing out (concrete and all). Fences down everywhere. The next plan was clever, the humans decided to do the same thing, except make the concrete slap bigger. Big enough so that the elephant can't grab the pole without stepping on the concrete. That way, if he wanted to pull it out, he'd be trying to lift up his own weight. Impossible. That got the elephants for a while. Not for long though, because instead of walking over the poles, or lifting them out, they decided it was easier to just use their trunk to slice them at the base! FAIL for the humans. So now, the men had to, not only redo all the of the supporting poles, but break all the huge concrete slabs, rip out the poles, rip out the concrete and start from scratch. So now they just do the regular fences and go around the perimeter every morning putting them back up.
Haha! I love these stories and these animals. Thys continued telling hilarious stories. It was pretty great and the weather continued being beautifully cool and overcast.

We ended then night deciding to stay one more day and going to bed early.
Good day.

Elephant femur! Look how big the hip socket is! Really heavy too

Camp and Lodge. Perfect for watching the animals drinking from the water hole

Impala

Female Kudu

The bush

A bull elephant completely tore through those beams trying to get to the water tank



12.08.2012

25 - 30th November - Gumare!


26, 27, 28, 29 & 30th of November
0 Miles
Gumare


Steph:

We have been lounging around all week enjoying Jeff's company, a bed, internet, and the village experiences we were hoping to get all along. It's been really nice. Jeff's work day is filled with meetings and endless attempts of getting people involved in the community. He is so optimistic and really works hard to come up with new ways of helping everyone around him. His job description can't be summed up in one sentence. He does everything, from starting up new fundraising for people with disabilities, to helping form and organize a local volunteer group with all of it's meetings and events, to getting people info about starting their own businesses, to working to get grants from the govt to build a theatre to lure people away from the bar every weekend. And it's all out of pure initiative. Nobody tells him what he needs to do or by when. He goes out and finds out what needs to be done and does it. It's really quite inspirational. And it's been fun to be around all of this all week. We sat in on some volunteer meetings and helped make posters. Erik designed a poster for World Aids Day here in Gumare and I designed a logo for the Okavango Sub District. We tagged along to set up for a movie the volunteers set up for children and helped at a BBQ to raise funds for a charity Christmas Dinner. It's been really fun. Especially getting to know the volunteers. Moss, Ratanang, Reuben, OD and TMG are lovely people who are working to better their community. They still need some practice in actually doing everything they talk about and some organizational skills, but the heart is there and that's really all that counts, right? :) So yeah, it's been fun.
Other than that, we really have been just sleeping in, surfing the net, and eating like machines. I'm always hungry. Even more so than before.  

Gumare - Buster the dog following us around town

Kalahari Ferrari. I like this town.


The rain season is coming.

12.07.2012

24 November - Thanksgiving!

24 November
0 Miles
Maun Thanksgiving!


Steph:

We spent all day cooking and drinking and getting to know everyone. It rocked.
Thanksgiving dinner was incredibly delicious.

We really never thought we would spend Thanksgiving in Botswana with a large group of Peace Corps Volunteers. It was really more than we ever hoped for.

Erik:

Today we just cooked, drank and talked.
Lindsay and crew amde amazing meals. So good. One of the best Thanksgiving meals I've had. It was very nice, very fun.

We got invited to an Island Safari camp weekend thing with Aimee on the 6th of dec. For her birthday. It sounds awesome, so we'll stay with Jeff for a little while to pass the time until then. Aimee also invited us to stay with her in Sepupa and with Bridget and Matt in Shakawe. Woo!

Bots 12!!


25 November
0 Miles
Maun – Gumare


Steph:

This morning we recovered, rested and cleaned. I went to the Roman Catholic Church in the morning which was a great experience. The music was awesome and the atmoshpere very welcoming. I thought of my mom and family a lot and missed them. I'm really glad I went.


Erik:

The three of us hitched back to Gumare in the afternoon and got a ride in the back of a baaki. When we arrived in Gumare, we discovered that Jeff did not have electricity. Se we called Trevor back in Maun and had him buy some (it's like a phone card, you recharge it).
For dinner we had delicious meat sauce pasta, a la jeff.  


12.06.2012

23 November - ELEPHANTS!


23 November
30 Miles
Bush Camp – Gumare – Maun


Erik:

WE SAW ELEPHANTS LAS NIGHT!!
As we were sleeping, we heard this crashing sound. Like a car driving through the bush. Sheph woke me up. We thought we'd heard some people talking in the area the night before and needed to keep an ear out. It was also stuffy that night so we had the front tent flap open to let some air in. We looked out to see ELEPHANTS! I counted 6, about 15 yeards away. One huge one, the closest, one baby, two adolecents and two mid size guys.
They made the noises, the grumbling sounds and just kept crushing along.

My heart was in my mouth. So cool. That was all at around midnight.

So then we rode to Gumare. Easy ride. Met Jeff. Super chill guy. Unloaded. Grabbed delicious fat cakes and hitched to Maun. Then we met a whole load of Peace Corps people. We all then proceeded to drink heavily.

Good times were had by all. And I won at Rocketball.


Steph:

ELEPHANTS!!! Oh my gosh! We couldn't breathe! It was crazy cool. There were shadows everywhere and they were so close. I loved it. It rocked.

Jeff is awesome. We hitched down to Maun with a nice family. It was crowded and fun. My first hitch hike! Woo! We arrived in Maun and met wonderful people. They were so nice that they gave us a bedroom for the weekend, rather than having to sleep in a tent. It was awesome. They're group is called "Bots12". They are the 12th group of PCV here in Botswana since 2005. Each person is posted in a different town/village and they work with the community on HIV/Aids related projects. It was awesome. Lindsay, Trevor, Jeff, Bridget, Matt, Leia, Maureen, Nina, Charmaine, TJ, Sharon, Christina, Becca, Aimee, Ryan, Boo, Dominique, Claire, Tate, I'm pretty sure I'm missing someone. I'm sorry. You guys are all great and we had an amazing time.  

Our camp among the bushes. I'm very glad we stuck close to the trees. 

Elephant foot prints! Ahh!

See how it's green? And my crumbly road? It's great.

12.05.2012

22 November - Done with the desert!


22 November
62 Miles
Sehithwa – Bush camp


Steph:

Today was beautiful! Besides puking up my malaria pill (again) this morning, I really liked today.
The weather was cloudy, overcast and cool. The road shrunk to a one lane. Just one lane. For two directions. Ahh! But it was a beautiful road! All crumbly on the edges and falling apart. And there were trees and shrubs and they were GREEN!! No more desert! It's gone! And the birds! There were birds chirping and calling just like in a jungle! I felt like I was in africa and was waiting for the elephants to come strolling by me. It was awesome. Beautiful!

Also, we had to stop at a "foot and mouth" disease check point (you have to get out of the car and step on this liquid thing and they spray around the car. It can apparently spread that way. Anyway, we stopped awkwardly on our bikes and waited for the 3 or 4 check point guys to come up to us. They did the regular "what the hell are you guys doing" look around thing. They asked what we were doing, we told them, and the main guy says, "from cape town? You rode these bicycles from cape town to here?". I said yes, he looks back down at the bikes and says, "I doubt it." He was dead serious. I told him, "no really, we did!" and he replied again, "no, i doubt it". It took another 5 minutes to convince him. He made a face and said, "I don't think I could bike down the street". They were funny and sweet.


Erik:

The scenery finally got nice. Seems there has been more rain this-a-way. Nothing too eventful going on. We had difficulty finding a spot to camp, but eventually found a place surrounded by bushes. There is elephant dung all around. A good sign?
We got in contact with Jeff from the Peace Corps in Gumare (just 30 miles away). He invited us to Thanksgiving in Maun with a bunch of other PCVolunteers. Back to Maun, so we hitch back tomorrow? Oh well! Anything for a party!  


It's already getting greener. And the animals are alive and breathing!

Loving the clouds and cooler weather. I'm so sick of the sun.

Look at our bikes in the background. At least this one is not rotting.

A zazu! Or Hornbill. They're everywhere. Very fun to watch.

12.04.2012

21 November - Maun


21 November
0 Miles
Maun


Erik:

Today we rode into Maun by car. Got a local tour. It was good.


Steph:

Despite Erik's inspirational and moving entry, I feel like I should add on to that.

We woke up this morning not really sure what to do. The brothers, however, knew exactly what to do. After a delicious breakfast, we climbed into their dad's American truck (I think it was a chevy) and they drove us to Maun. Maun is one of Botswana's bigger cities and the main tourist hub. A lot of safaris and tours start from here. It even has an AIRPORT! True story.
It was fun, we listened to classic rock the whole way there and the boys told us of their life plans. It's very exciting. They love having moved here and love Botswana and everything it has to offer. I love how they get along and call themselves best friends. We picked up their friend, Almay, who gave us a local tour of the town which ended with a milk shake and a dip in the pool. Very nice!

After a nap, some of their family friends came over. They're a family also from SA who are wanting to move to Botswana as well. We had a very long conversation about the direction that South Africa is currently going. Erik and I just ask questions and love hearing other people's opinions. Especially if they're from there.


Erik:

One of them got a bit toasty and started a very heated conversation about how SA is doomed. She became defensive saying that the USA isn't that great either. I had none of that.
Besides all that, a very restful and pleasant day.  

Lake Ngami. It's been growing for a while and is taking over trees. It's a huge breeding ground for birds from all over the delta.

Louis and Jacques! Two super brothers who showed us around and were awesome hosts.

A truck full of skulls and a dude reading a book.

A Kalahari Ferrari! Say it out loud!

12.03.2012

20 November - 100 Miles


20 November
100 Miles
Ghanzi – Sehithwa


Steph:

We actually left early today! And were awake! And the wind was at our backs! By 11am we had covered 60 miles, so we decided to try to make it to Sehithwa (100 miles) that day. The only town in between was Kuke. Not a town, a village. It was really cool. All traditional huts, each with a little yard. There were kids racing around on donkeys and people actually seemed productive. We stopped for a coke at a little refreshment stand and met Petros Petros. He is a miner from Francistown. I love talking to the locals. Petros was really nice and gave us a tutorial on the local delicacy, Mopane Worms. These are moth larvae that hang out in Mopane trees. They are highly nutritious and pretty popular among several tribes. Petros made it very clear that these worms (actually caterpillars) are meant to be eaten either cooked or dried. He told us not to fall for anyone saying that we should eat them raw. I guess they're really quite gross when they're raw. Noted. Thank you Petros.

At around noon, it turned very hot and our clouds disappeared. We still had to ride 40 miles so we left at 3pm. Way too early for me. The water in our bottles wasn't just luke warm, it almost burned. We later found out that the temperature was over 110F. About 30 miles from Sehithwa we were ready to stop for the day, but that was not going to be an option. The dry season was so intense here that animals were literally dropping like flies. There were cattle and horses lying dead and decaying left and right. I had a big issue with this. Not only was I feeling way over heated, but the smell was overwhelming and there were hundreds of them. On top of this, we were losing sunlight quickly and the wind was not helping us move forward. FINALLY, we arrived in Sehithwa where we met Louis and Jacques, two brothers from South Africa that are in the process of building a lodge there. They took us in, gave us electrolytes and fed us a delicious steak dinner.
Our 100 mile day ended on a very pleasant note, eating steak and having fun conversations until midnight. :) Thank god for good people!

A giant termite mound

It's so hot!! And everything is dead! 



12.02.2012

19 November - D'Kar

19 November
25 Miles
Ghanzi – Sehithwa


Steph:

The wind was crazy last night! I think I spent half the night awake thinking I could hear someone stealing our bikes. At one point I did get up to check on them and GUESS WHAT!? The neighborhood cat had ripped open a bag of "biltong" (really good beef jerky) that was hanging from our bikes and eaten it all. Why did we hang that there in the first place?! Stupid.
Anyway, we woke up on time but realized that we had forgotten to adjust the gears on my bike the night before. We ended up leaving around 7:30, which was ok because the clouds were pretty thick and we didn't really have too far to go.

Oh last night we met Maureen! We were walking through the restaurant and she recognized us from couch surfing. Small world. We chatted for a while. She's here in Botswana with the Peace Corps and was kind enough to give us the phone numbers of several other PC Volunteers farther up north. That brought our spirits up even more!

Also! I got to talk to my mami! She had just finished her second Ironman and told me all about it. She improved her time substantially even though she only did half the training she probably should have. I love her and she's my hero.

From what we had heard, D'Kar was this cultural hub for the bushmen and other surrounding tribes. The signs boasted of a museum and a tourist center, etc etc. :) Not so much.
That night, we had dinner with the one german GIZ volunteer in town and his boss, Nina. It was very nice and we learned a lot about the community in D'Kar and the kind of work the GIZ (Deutsche Gesellschaft fur Internationale Zusammenarbeit - German Society for International Cooperation) does here in Botswana. Nina is the Botswana project manager and oversees all the community outreach programs around the country. It sounds like a very interesting, sometimes very frustrating job.


Erik:

We arrived in D'Kar at around 10am. After wandering we found the "hostel". It was overpriced, but we figured the money goes right back into the community so we paid it as our contribution. The floors were covered with dead bugs. After a nap, we went exploring. We noticed that people in the village don't really do anything. Everyone is laying around in the shade. We wondered what the village does to sustain itself. The GIZ has been around D'Kar for a while now and they had no idea. The woman at the hostel had told us to make sure we visit the art shop and the museum. Both turned out to be closed.
We didn't really like this town very much. I looks like they are just using the San (bushmen) for their own profit and not treating them very well in return. At least that's the impression we got. Later, we actually learned that this is very true. There is a set of organizations that take all the profit from these people's culture and leave the


Which way?

12.01.2012

Fun Facts!

FUN FACTS!!



Steph:

So in light of our little inner/outer struggle, I'd like to share some fun, random tid bits with you!

  • Botswana and Namibia both play South African TV. South African News only, South African weather. We haven't been able to find the weather report anywhere, except online. And we don't have internet. So... yeah.
  • I knew I'd get tan lines but holy cow. I'm so nice and brown from about 2 inches above my knees down. My quads and thighs...they've never been so white. It's not attractive.
  • Our farmer's tan up top is also stellar
  • My face has held up surprisingly well. I thought that as soon as I'd stop my daily wash, scrub, lotion routine, I'd break out like a pizza. But I haven't!! Amazing!
  • Erik's beard is long. So is his hair. He looks like Davy Crocket and refuses to even CONSIDER letting me cut it. Ever.
  • The difference between S.A./Namibian and Botswanian Rest stops on the road is that, since there are no fences in Botswana, the rest stops are covered in cow and donkey dung. They use them more than people do. Not helpful to us at all.
  • Erik says the beer selection is weak.
  • We're building a Braai pit at the house when we get home. Basically a big fire pit to cook meat in. You're all invited.
  • The Kudu are a type of antelope/deer and they are BIG. Like moose, only bigger. And they're called the "Ghost of Africa". You're considered lucky if you see one.
  • The lack of wikipedia is making me sound less smart because I can't look up these things before actually typing them out.
  • I miss yogurt.
  • I don't get Rugby.
  • We have to change the way we say "water" to the British way of saying it because people don't understand it. At all.
  • I've lost a bunch of weight. It's exciting, but now my pants fall off.
  • I feel like the cows we ride by on a daily basis really are judging us.
  • Oh!! On that note! Erik made an excellent point. The reason they don't run away when we get close is because we don't look like humans on the bicycles! It makes us look like weird aliens.
  • Nothing really describes the feeling of watching a beautiful butterfly gliding over the road, making you smile and then flying right into your spokes and dying a horrible death. It happens all the time. Now when I see one, I cringe. Very sad.
  • I miss my people a whole bunch
  • I like Africa :) and I like our adventures.